How does lip plumper work?

There’s no shortage of lip products to help whoever wants a plump pout. A standard lip plumper can even claim to instantly boost lip volume without the need for filler!

These lip plumping products seem like a quick, easy fix and are certainly less expensive than a procedure – but many present more risks than benefits and only offer temporary results anyway.

As usual, it comes down to the ingredients, assessing their risks and keeping cosmetic claims rooted in reality. We’ll get into it below with a dermatologist so you can decide what’s best for your smile.

What’s in a lip plumper?

Many ingredients like capsaicin (makes chilli peppers hot), menthol or potent menthol derivatives, camphor, cinnamon, mint and ginger oils are what plumps lips inside tingling glosses and balms. So how can you get bigger lips? And why does lip plumper hurt? The answer is yes, these ingredients make it possible to see fuller lips in the short term. But the fullness isn’t from increased lip volume, it’s actually down to irritation. That’s why it stings!

It’s so tempting to try an instant lip plumper that promises fast results in fun colours. Who wouldn’t want a quick fix for a night out? But the side effects of lip plumper are temporary and you must pay attention to ingredients, which damage the skin if you’re not careful.

Do lip plumpers work? Myths vs facts

Yes most lip plumpers do technically work, but their temporary plump side effect is not good news for your skin.

So the “plumping” side effect happens because of vasodilation, the widening of blood vessels to allow more blood to flow through which then makes the vessels look larger. Unfortunately, this process shows that your lips are having a negative reaction. Dermatologist Dr. Hartman says, “The result is unpredictable once the blood starts to flow, so you never really know exactly how plump the lips will become.”

So any numbing, cooling, burning or tingling sensation you feel from lip plumpers means that your lips are irritated. The temporary, plumped look is often appealing, but consistent irritation can damage the delicate skin on your lips and eventually lead to thinning – the exact opposite of the fuller lip goal.

What’s in a lip plumper?

How to plump lips naturally? Expert tips

So how do you get plumper lips without irritating the skin or turning to injections?

Thankfully, there are safe ingredients that can make a visible difference in the fullness and texture of your lips with consistent use. The best lip plumper is one that treats the delicate skin on lips with care while supplying it with research-proven ingredients to improve its overall health, creating a pillowy appearance in the process.

What plumps lips? Key ingredients to look for

Does hyaluronic acid plump lips?

Yes, humectants (like hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate) plump lips by working with plant sugars and keeping water within the lips that would otherwise evaporate on the surface. Hyaluronic acid is well known for its ability to attract and hold on to moisture, which helps lips stay hydrated and plumped.

Hyaluronic acid can also restore firmness and pliability to lips which helps lessen the appearance of wrinkles on the thin skin there. A topical hyaluronic acid lip plumping gloss or balm can go a long way to making lips appear youthful and full! Do peptides plump lips? Yes, messenger peptides (like palmitoyl tripeptide-1) and signal peptides (like palmitoyl tripeptide-38) can get lips back to a fuller state over time by helping to revive underlying substances that provide support.

Peptides for lips will not only restore suppleness and improve the look of fine lines, but also result in a fuller-looking and cushioned effect. With these products, “the key is to enhance the delicate and specialized skin of the lips so that they appear plumper because they are better hydrated and moisturized,” says Dr. Hartman.

More lip balm ingredients for fuller lips

Anything you can do to restore lips' moisture and improve skin barrier function will make your pout look smoother, juicier and fuller. Here are some other proven ingredients to consider when looking for an over-the-counter lip plumper:

  • Squalane for lips works like skin’s own oil to prevent moisture loss and restore suppleness
  • Plant butters for lips (think cocoa and shea butters) contains skin-restoring antioxidants that can help prevent pro-ageing damage
  • Glycerine for lips fortifies skin’s moisture barrier

Lip plumping tips & tricks

Achieving fuller lips is also possible with some tried-and-true make-up hacks:

  • Line your lips slightly outside the natural lip line with a liner that’s close to your natural lip color
  • The shade of your lip colour impacts the appearance of lip fullness: very dark shades tend to make lips look smaller, while more neutral or lighter pink and rose-toned colors make them appear larger
  • Dab a bit of lip gloss on the center of your bottom lip; the light-reflecting properties of gloss make lips appear fuller
  • Use a lip balm loaded with beneficial ingredients to smooth lips and diminish the appearance of lines, leading to a plumper appearance. During the day, use a lip balm with SPF to protect against skin-thinning sun damage

If you want fuller lips that last longer, there’s no question that lip injections from a cosmetic dermatologist will give results. This procedure adds volume and shape to lipsfor up to a year. Make sure to consult a professional if this is the route you wish to take.

References for this information:

Molecules, July 2016, page 844
Contact Dermatitis, September 2016, pages 333–344
Cosmetics, February 2017, ePublication
Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology, January-February 2009, pages 10-19
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, April 2017, pages 366-371
Current Protein and Peptide Science, October 2021, pages 716-728
Dental Clinics of North America, July 2022, pages 431-442

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